Taste Food: Tweaking biscotti

This recipe is (nearly) an exact reproduction of a biscotti recipe from Bon Appetit. It follows the recipe almost to the letter, with two modifications. It reduces the amount of sugar slightly, which is my preference, and it makes one change to the baking method.

These changes were not my idea, but the idea of a friend who introduced me to the recipe. She brought these biscotti to a beach barbecue, and I knew I wanted the recipe when I found myself walking through the sand dunes munching on two fistfuls of cookies before we even lit the grill for the main course.

These biscotti have everything that I appreciate in a cookie: fruit, nuts and citrus, suspended in a wholesome biscuit that exhibits restraint in sugar. A notable difference was that the biscotti were slightly underbaked, veering from the classic method of baking this Italian confection to enamel-cracking crispness. Instead, they have a wonderful crumbly perfection, which begs for more tasting without the risk of cracking a tooth. Which, of course, enables further munching.

Dried Cherry and Pistachio Biscotti

recipe adapted from Bon Appetit

Yield: approximately 30 biscotti

1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup old-fashioned oats

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

Zest from one untreated orange

Zest from one untreated lemon

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1 cup dried pitted cherries, coarsely chopped

1 cup unsalted shelled pistachios

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

Combine the flour, sugar, oats, baking powder, baking soda and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer with a paddle attachment. Briefly mix on low speed to blend.

Combine the eggs, oil, orange zest, lemon zest, vanilla and almond extracts in a separate bowl and whisk to combine. Add to the dry ingredients and mix on low speed to combine. Add the cherries and pistachios and stir with a wooden spoon to combine.

Divide the dough in half. Shape each dough half into a 14- to 16-inch-long log. Arrange on a baking sheet, spaced 4 to 5 inches apart. Flatten each log into a 2-inch-deep strip. Bake until golden brown and set, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool for 15 minutes.

Lower the oven temperature to 250 degrees. Transfer the biscotti to a cutting board. Cut into 3/4-inch-thick strips with a serrated knife. Place the biscotti, cut side down, on the baking sheet. Bake until firm and golden, about 25 minutes.

Cool completely on racks. Store at room temperature in an airtight container.

Lynda Balslev is an award-winning writer, cookbook author, and recipe developer based in northern California. Visit TasteFood at TasteFoodblog.com.