Recipe: Respecting the mushroom

Stuffed mushrooms are timeless, popular appetizers. They make terrific hors d'oeuvres. The fillings vary from luxurious crabmeat or crumbled sausage to melty cheesy and wilted spinach. However, as rich and gooey as these fillings are, they run the risk of overpowering the flavor of the mushroom itself, which really isn't fair. After all, if the humble mushroom is doing the heavy lifting as a vessel for the stuffing, it also deserves to be front and center in flavor.

This recipe gives the mushroom its due respect by using it in two ways: as the vessel and a duxelles filling. Duxelles is a French preparation of finely chopped mushrooms, sauteed until the juices release, along with aromatics to enhance the mushroom flavor. The result is an intense mound of fungi that may appear underwhelming, but delivers deep, earthy flavor. 

Duxelles can be used in myriad ways. Spread a dollop on crostini for a simple appetizer; stuff them in fresh pasta or fold into risottos. Stir a spoonful into sauces as a flavorful thickener, or use them as a stuffing for poultry and a key ingredient in a traditional beef Wellington.

When making duxelles, any mushroom will do. However, a variety of wild mushrooms, such as porcini, shiitake, chanterelle and portobello, will gift you with richer flavor. And consider making an extra portion to have on hand. Duxelles can be made in advance and refrigerated for one week or frozen for up to one month. 

Stuffed Mushrooms With Duxelles

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: Makes 12 stuffed mushrooms (and about 2 cups duxelles)

Duxelles:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 pound fresh mushrooms, such as cremini or porcini, cleaned and trimmed, coarsely chopped

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

Kosher salt 

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons port wine or brandy, such as Calvados

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Mushrooms:

12 large, firm cremini mushrooms, about 1 pound

2 tablespoons cream cheese, softened

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley leaves

Olive oil for brushing 

Kosher salt 

1/4 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)

Make the duxelles: Heat the oil and melt the butter in a heavy or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and shallot and season with salt. Saute until the mushrooms release their juices, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme and brandy. Saute until the juices evaporate and the mushrooms begin to color, 3 to 4 minutes more. Transfer the mushroom mixture to a food processor and pulse to chop without making a paste. Season to taste with more salt and the black pepper. Transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature.

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove the stems from the mushrooms. Use a small spoon to carefully scoop out any gills and discard. 

Add the cream cheese, 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano and parsley to the duxelles and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning.

Lightly brush the mushrooms with oil and a pinch of salt. Spoon the filling into the cavities. Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmigiano-Reggiano and the panko in a bowl. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the mushrooms, gently pressing to adhere and slightly flatten the filling. 

Arrange the mushrooms on a rack placed over a baking sheet (this will allow the mushrooms to drain their juices while baking). Bake in the oven until golden brown on top, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm.

Lynda Balslev is an award-winning writer, cookbook author, and recipe developer based in northern California. Visit TasteFood at TasteFoodblog.com.