Recipe: Add a smear to your winter squash

You might call this recipe a two-fer. It's not just about the roasted delicata squash. It's also about the smear of labneh that accompanies it.

Delicata is a small, oblong winter squash with green and yellow striated skin. The skin is edible (and nutrient-rich), so there's no need to peel it. Delicata cooks quickly, and roasting is an easy method that amplifies its sweet and creamy flavor. Halve the squash lengthwise or slice into thin rings or half-moons to roast. 

Labneh is a soft cheese made from strained cultured dairy products, such as yogurt and kefir. It's a tangy, creamy Middle Eastern staple that is often used as a dip and spread. It's also packed with probiotics and nutrients such as calcium and vitamin A.

In this recipe, labneh provides a luxurious swipe for the roasted squash. The labneh is infused with preserved lemons and za'atar (a Middle Eastern spice mix), which bring salty, citrusy zing to the creamy labneh. Preserved lemons are lemons that are salted and brined in their own juice. The brining process softens their skin, which you can eat. When buying preserved lemons, save the juices in the jar to use as a flavor booster. A final shower of pistachios and lemon zest dresses up the finished dish. 

You can purchase labneh, preserved lemons and za'atar in well-stocked markets or specialty stores. You can also make your own labneh; a recipe is provided below.

Roasted Delicata Squash With Labneh

Active time: 10 minutes

Total time: 35 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

Squash:

2 medium delicata squash, sliced crosswise in 1/2-inch-thick rings, seeds removed

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Labneh:

1 cup prepared labneh (recipe below)

1/2 preserved lemon, pulp removed, skin finely diced, divided

1 small garlic clove, grated or minced 

2 teaspoons jarred preserved lemon juice (or fresh lemon juice) 

1/2 teaspoon za'atar

Garnishes:

Chopped fresh mint, chopped pistachios, finely grated lemon zest

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the squash in a bowl. Drizzle with the oil and spices and toss to coat. 

Spread the squash in one layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Roast in the oven until tender and charred in spots, about 25 minutes, flipping the squash once.

While the squash roasts, scoop the labneh into a bowl. Add half of the preserved lemon skin, the garlic, lemon juice and za'atar and stir to combine. Taste for seasoning.

To serve, smear the labneh on a serving platter or individual serving plates. Arrange the squash over the labneh. Garnish with the remaining chopped lemon skin, mint, pistachios and lemon zest.

Labneh

Active time: 5 minutes

Total time: 5 minutes plus draining time

Yield: Makes about 2 cups

4 cups whole milk plain yogurt

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Mix the yogurt and the salt in a bowl. Line a sieve with cheesecloth and place over a bowl, with space between the bottom of the sieve and the bowl to separate any drained liquid. Place the yogurt in the cheesecloth. Cover the sieve and refrigerate for 24 hours. Remove the labneh from the cheesecloth and transfer to a glass container. Store in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Lynda Balslev is an award-winning writer, cookbook author, and recipe developer based in northern California. Visit TasteFood at TasteFoodblog.com.